Conditions Report
Trip Report
Skiing in the Southern Hemisphere is an experience. There is something about skiing fresh snow in July that doesn’t compute in your head…its supposed to be sunny, I’m supposed to be at the beach or something, but rather I’m skiing 5″ of fresh snow in late July in Chile…weird. Once you get over the mind block that says this isn’t right, its nothing but good, muy bueno.
If you want to ski in the Southern Hemisphere during the North American summer you have two options realistically, New Zealand/Australia and South America Chile/Argentina. So basically its a question of decent mountains and English, or great mountains and Spanish. I myself skied for my first time in the Southern Hemisphere this past summer in Chile, specifically El Colorado outside Santiago and the world famous Portillo. And while the snow was not optimal, the experience was quite awesome.
The Andes Mountain Range is the second highest after the Himalayas, the longest in the world, and holds some pretty good snow during the North American Summer. Chile and Argentina are the main destinations for South American skiing. Chile harbors the Santiago resorts of La Parva/El Colorado/Valle Nevado, Portillo to the north, and Nevados de Chillan to the South. Each has its own unique style and terrain.
Portillo, “The spirit of the Andes” is pretty world renowned, it has hosted national ski teams from around the world such as the Chilean, Italian, and U.S. ski teams. It is the home of Chris Davenports ski camp “Ski with Chris” (real original), and was Shane McConkey, as well as many other pro skiers summer home. Portillo is on the map, no doubt about it. And its not a question why, the mountain is pretty rad, and holds so much potential. While I wouldn’t recommend staying at the hotel or indulging in its services, I would highly recommend traveling to the mountain for the day, or multiple days and skiing the awesomeness that is Portillo.
Located in the high Andes, right next to the highest mountain in the Americas, Aconcagua (22,837′), and the Argentine border, Portillo is up there. The road to get there is sketchy, but once there everything is todo bien. The mountain has so much potential, chutes, steeps, and long fast groomers. When there is snow and the lake freezes over, the side country is endless, making Portillo one of the premier South American destinations. While I was there unfortunately the snow was less than ideal, but fun none the less.
“I wanna go fast” as Ricky Bobby once said is what I felt every morning ripping the groomers on Juncalillo, with perfectly groomed runs and rollers galore. Once the sun came up a bit it was off to the “slingshot” lifts Roca Jack and El Caracara for some “off-piste” skiing. Heading up Roca Jack and heading skiers right toward El Caracara held the best snow, chalky and fresh. The afternoon was always chasing the sun to the other side of the mountain and riding El Plateau, and skiing Garganta and Condor lift. Garganta is a special run, it is fully visible from the hotel and about half the lift ride up. It starts with a rocky entrance, take off the skis or try and walk it with skis on. Then it is a steep, narrow and icy entry followed by a wide open and often bumpy run out. Watching from the chair I saw multiple falls and people straight gripped. They usually made it down one way or another though.
Portillo is a special place, the mountain is second to none, and holds so much potential. While my South American experience is limited, I would highly recommend Portillo, just don’t have anything to do with the hotel or its amenities. With big mountains, endless opportunities given good snow, and pretty rad gringo peoples working there to help you out, Portillo is a must hit in Chile.
The Portillo hotel is expensive and requires a full week stay if booked in advance.
Supposedly rooms are modest, but food, service and ambience are very good. Alta Lodge, Rustler Lodge or the St. Bernard at Taos might be close analogies.
The author’s perspective is probably based upon 2 points:
1) It’s much cheaper to stay an hour down the road in Los Andes. He did not mention that Portillo also has the dorm-style Inca Lodge on-site.
2) Flexibility is always desirable in South America given weather shutdowns. The Chilean areas can be skied on a flexible schedule with a rental car, so some skiers would prefer that to being locked into one place for a week.
The hotel in Portillo is old and ugly on the outside, but nicely renovated, maintaining it’s character, and steeped in traditions on the inside. Run by the same american family since the 60´s (Purcell), It has a European feel, and is like a mini UN conclave, with wealthy folks showing off their fashionable clothes and gear, and racers, families, ski bums, and so on from around the world rubbing shoulders. We visited recently and the same waiter that attended the family of my wife around 1970 is still working there, with a crisp suit on and gentlemanly manners. Together with the unique setting of the hotel, with it’s outdoor hot pool overlooking the Laguna del Inca, and surrounded by soaring peaks, this is a special experience that should not be missed if you have the bucks.
The author twice recommends against staying at the hotel but doesn’t say why…