Chile Surf & Culture Report: Barreling Waves & Penguins

Miles Clark | | Post Tag for SurfSurf
A local getting nasty at Lobos.  photo:  tu sesion
A local getting nasty at Lobos on July 10th. photo: tu sesion

I spent the first two weeks of July surfing at Punta de Lobos, Chile.  I surfed with two penguins on my third day there.  The water is crystal clear, cold (56ºF), and full of swell.  This may be one of the most consistent waves in the world since a large point to the south of the wave blocks the prevailing southerly winds.  The only thing that ruins the wave here is a north wind, which we unfortunately got a healthy dose of this July.

Another incredible Punta de Lobos, Chile sunset in July.
Another incredible Punta de Lobos, Chile sunset in July.

When I was here last October, the wave was great 20 out of 21 days.  This month for me it was 50/50.  I had 5 ok to shitty days and 5 unreal days.  It was certainly worth it.  300-yard long rides, big clean walls, and the occasional tube make Lobos a surfer’s dream come true.

Big drops at Lobos on July 10th, 2015.  photo:  tu sesion
Big drops and birds at Lobos on July 10th, 2015. photo: tu sesion

The shitty days were all due to big storms that raged through Punta de Lobos.  The storm on July 11th, was one of the biggest storms to hit Chile in 5-years and left 5+ Feet of Snow at Las Lenas, Argentina (just east of Lobos) and Portillo, Chile.  Even though it blew out the surf, I couldn’t be too upset about the big snow since after all, it’s snow that I came to this continent for.

Canada nick getting shacked at Lobos on July 10th.  photo:  tu sesion
Canada nick getting shacked at Lobos on July 10th. photo: tu sesion

I surfed from July 3rd until July 13th and that last day was spectacular.  Long rides, no one out, perfectly smooth, overhead waves.

The author going surfing in the rain at Lobos.  Cold, wet, terrible winter waves on a stormy day.
The author going surfing in the rain at Lobos. Cold, wet, terrible winter waves on a stormy day.

We’ve now migrated into the deep south of Chile.  The waves are killer down here, the weather is lousy, and the water is damn cold.

Bombs away at Lobos on July 10th, 2015.  photo:  tu sesion
Bombs away at Lobos on July 10th, 2015. photo: tu sesion

Next stop, Bariloche, Argentina where they just got 50″ of snow in 24 hours.

PHOTO TOUR:

The author showing his impeccable "great ape" style at Lobos.
The author showing his impeccable “great ape” style at Lobos on July 10th. photo: tu sesion
Incredible Punta de Lobos, Chile sunset in July.
Incredible Punta de Lobos, Chile sunset in July.
14,000-foot peaks to the East of San Fernando, Chile. We saw this en route to some waves in the deep south of Chile.
14,000-foot peaks to the East of San Fernando, Chile covered in 6-feet of fresh snow on July 14th. We saw this en route to some waves in the deep south of Chile.
Bombs away at Lobos on July 10th, 2015.  photo:  tu sesion
Bombs away at Lobos on July 10th, 2015. photo: tu sesion
Cozy cabin living at Lobos.
Cozy cabin living at Lobos.

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