Climbing
Mountain guide Simon Kearns has shattered the speed record for a round-trip ascent and descent of Mount Rainier, completing the feat in 3:43:52 on May 9, 2026. Kearns, who guides for RMI Expeditions on Mount Rainier, bested the previous Fastest Known Time (FKT) held by Alex King, marking a significant milestone in the Pacific Northwest alpine running community.
Kearns’ original objective for the season was to challenge the ski record, but a combination of a snapped race ski and a lean snow year forced a strategic pivot. “It became pretty clear this spring that I would have to pivot my focus away from the ski record and back to the on-foot record,” Kearns shared via Instagram. “It went better than I ever could have hoped for and feels like a really long time coming.”
The ascent was notably fast, with Kearns reaching the 14,411-foot summit in just 2:34:00. This split matches the pace set by elite mountain athlete Jack Kuenzle during his own record-breaking ski run of the mountain. Kuenzle, widely considered a benchmark in the sport, congratulated Kearns online, stating it was “great to see it all come together.”
The record was completed in an unsupported style, meaning Kearns carried all his own supplies and received no outside assistance during the effort. He credited his intimate knowledge of the mountain gained through guiding, as well as specific coaching from Jay Cole, for his readiness on race day. Kearns noted that conditions on the mountain were “excellent” for a running attempt, despite the lack of coverage that hampered skiing.
Kearns’ achievement adds another chapter to the competitive history of Mount Rainier speed records, a pursuit that has seen times plummet in recent years as elite trail runners and mountaineers increasingly apply light-and-fast tactics to the technical volcanic terrain.
