Russian Climber Stuck at 20,000-Feet on Latok I in Karakoram Range after his Partner Fell to his Death

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mountaineer, climber, stuck 20,000-feet, Latok 1, pakistan, Karakoram
The infamous North Ridge of Latok 1. Credit: Patagonia

Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov is currently trapped at 20,000-feet on Latok I, a 23,442-foot peak in the Karakoram range of Pakistan, after witnessing the death of his climbing partner Sergey Glazunov. A rescue operation is currently underway in a race against time.

Wednesday, July 25, Gukov and his partner Sergey Glazunov, began retreating down the mountain, having climbed to within 600 feet of the summit. Glazunov was rappelling while carrying the two climbers’ equipment, but something went wrong and he rappelled off the end of his rope, falling to his death, reports Outside Online

Gukov is still on the mountain, but lacks the appropriate gear to descend, reports Anna Piunova, editor of A helicopter is on its way to attempt to retrieve him. It’s currently midnight in Pakistan and the rescue efforts will continue in the morning.

mountaineer, climber, stuck 20,000-feet, Latok 1, pakistan, Karakoram
Alexander Gukov currently stuck at 20,000-feet awaiting rescue. Credit: Born2Climb

The North Ridge of Latok I is the grand prize of high altitude mountaineering—the route has yet to be completed, despite decades of attempts. Gukov and Glazunov’s high point of 22,884 feet is the highest any team has made it since Jim Donini, Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy, and George Lowe spent 26 days on the face in 1978. Kennedy and his team made it to within 300 to 400 feet of the summit plateau when Lowe became seriously sick, forcing the team to retreat. More than 30 teams have attempted the peak since.

In 2015, Gukov was awarded mountaineering’s most prestigious award, the Piolet d’Or, for his and fellow Russian climber Aleksey Lonchinsky’s ascent of the Southwest Face of Thamserku via their route “Shy Girl,” a 6,200-foot route in the Eastern Himalaya.

At the time of yesterday’s accident, the Russians had stretched their five-day supply of food for 14 days. According to Planet Mountain, after Gukov sent out his SOS, several climbers volunteered to help:

“Poland’s Adam Bielecki and Andrzej Bargiel and Germany’s David Göttler all offered to join the rescue operation. Bargiel is currently at Skardu and Bielecki and Göttler are both in Gasherbrum II base camp, and as we write a helicopter attempted but failed to reach them in order to transport them to Latok I Base Camp. Weather conditions are unfortunately far from ideal.”

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