Yesterday, I surfed with Penguins. Three of them. I was waiting for a wave and three of ’em popped out of the water and just stared at me. I stared back and paddled closer while feeling confused yet in absolute awe. After about 3 minutes, they dove, never to be seen again… The coolest thing that’s happened to me in surfing. (If I had to guess, they were Magellanic Penguins)
Ok, now it’s time to get more objective.
I arrived in Punta de Lobos, Chile a few days ago. The first two days, the waves were pumping. This place is simply mechanical. It’s a happy, rolling wave with a couple potential barrel sections and it can be long. Real long on the right wave. Nearly a kilometer long on the right wave.
Tuesday was about head high and smooth and great. Wednesday was about the same but maybe even more fun. Yesterday, things backed off a bit and I surfed the wrong tide (low tide is better here) but still had fun. Today appears to be about the same as yesterday size and shape wise.
A vicious wind has been blowing since Wednesday night. The large cliff just south of the wave blocks the big south winds and keeps the wave glassy – for the most part.
Yesterday afternoon, the strong winds made for a great show as a guy on a wind surfer was absolutely crushing it. Stomping front flips, slashing waves, ripping back and forth with speed.
Some kite surfers were out as well having a blast.
The only somewhat negative thing I can say about this place is that it’s damn cold. I repeat, damn cold. Air temps have been in the 50s, ripping cold winds, some overcast days, and the water is about 52ºF. It’s not providing the relief I was hoping for after 9 weeks in the snow in Bariloche, but the wave is incredible and extremely consistent, so there is no room for complaints.
I’m looking forward to my three weeks here killing time before a quick ski trip to Antarctica in early November.
Wind surfer crushing it for hours today.