Speed riding is essentially skiing but with wings. You clip into your skis, strap on a small glider, and take off. The glider or ‘wing,’ as it is referred, lifts, the skis carve, and gravity does the rest. Itโs fast. Itโs light. And when done right, it looks like flight sculpted in real time; the ability to glide only inches or also hundreds of feet above snow, cutting tight turns, touching down and lifting againโall at breakneck speed.
Born in France in the early 2000s, speed riding stemmed from speed flying, which exploded as a fringe experiment, turning into one of the most exhilarating mountain sports on the planet. The main difference? Speed riding is on snow with skis while speed flying is only flying. Both demand precision, speed, and a lot of nerve. They both took root deeply in the Chamonix valleyโwhere the terrain is some of the most serious the world has to offer. The line between life and death runs thin here, and those who call these mountains their home constantly dance along that line.
Yet beneath the sportโs rugged image lies a quieter legacyโone carved by the women whoโve been flying these peaks for decades.
Cyrilde Pic is a Chamonix local and a speed riding guide. Sheโs been flying since before social media existed, before most people knew what speed riding even was. โThere was a lot of speed riding with women here before the social media,โ she says with a French accent. โItโs just an old storyโolder than Instagram.โ
Pic grew up between Chamonix and Brittany, skiing and sailing. Her introduction to wind sports like speed flying actually started first with windsurfing. Later, a paragliding tandem flight for her 20th birthday changed everything. She dropped out of university to become a paragliding instructor. โWhen speed riding showed up in the mid-2000sโฆI was a skier and a sailor and a paraglider. It was love at first sight. For me, it was windsurfing on snow.โ
She started teaching speed riding in 2009, and by 2010, she won the French championship at 40 years old. โItโs not the Olympics,โ she says. “We were 12 girls. But for me, it was an achievement. I couldnโt make what I wanted to do in my windsurfing career because of the money. So I was really happy to win this title.โ
From the start, women werenโt just on the sidelines in Chamonixโthey were actively shaping the speed riding scene. Pic, one of the sportโs early figures, remembers it clearly. โItโs always been a girl story, riding in the valley,โ she says. Some of her friends moved on over the years, but Pic stayed with itโteaching, riding, competingโdriven purely by love for the sport. Women werenโt just participating; they were building the foundation.
Pic’s journey hasnโt been smooth. In 2012, an avalanche near the Monte Bianco Skyway in Italy nearly ended her career. She was out in the mountains shooting photos of skiing and speed riding with a friend when she got caught. โBy chance, I didnโt take the canopy out yet,โ she says. โI tumbled for 400 meters and broke all my right side. Itโs been a long way back.โ But the injury gave her perspective. โItโs probably one of the most interesting journeys in my life. You discover that you can do it. I find joy now in simpler things.โ
Today, she still ridesโguiding clients, exploring lines, and sharing knowledge with younger pilots. โIโve been teaching speed riding for a long time and paragliding more than 30 years. If I can share that with other women and the kids who need a bit of experience, Iโm super happy.โ
One of those younger pilots is Ioana Hanganu, a Romanian rider who moved to Chamonix in December 2020 and became actively involved in the speed riding community. She flies constantly; before work, after work, or pretty much whenever the weather allows. She flies with other women. With men. Or with whoever shares the same obsession for speed, flow, and freedom. For Hanganu, itโs not just about logging flightsโitโs about building a community in the sky. One where skill matters more than ego, and where every shared lap becomes part of something bigger.
โThere are people that are super good at flying but not very good on skis,โ she says. โYou need both. Itโs not like you can do this once every two weeks. You have to keep up. Itโs a year-round thing. You need hours.โ
Hanganu started with paragliding, logging in hours of flight time before progressing to speed flying and then ultimately speed riding. But that all came to a halt when, on a paragliding trip in India with some friends in 2024, she crashed and broke her spine trying to top-land at the end of a long day of flying. Hanganu couldn’t land where she initially planned and made an error on the descent, crashing and suffering a compression fracture in her L2 vertebrae and spinal chord compression, which left her needing an intense rescue that took hours, followed by spinal surgery and months of rehabilitation just to return to her normal physical ability.
She learned a lot from the accident, she says. Now, she increases the amount of studying she does for landings and better listens to her body when she’s tired, often backing off from flights when she’s not feeling great about them.”I’m more careful now with being mental there, taking less risk, and trusting myself more than listening to other peopleโand just feeling it 100% when I go for it,” Hanganu says.
Another friend of Pic and Hanganu is Johanna Stalnacke, a Chamonix mountain guide whose first solo flight paragliding ended in a crash. โThere was a bit of a side wind,โ she says. โI made a mistake, raised the wrong brake in the stress, and I did a 180 right back into the landing field. But the only thing I could think about was getting back up. Otherwise, Iโd be scared.โ
It was Pic who helped Stalnacke get her confidence back. โShe told me, Iโll guide you on the radio. Weโll do it gradually, and itโll be a good experience again,โ Stalnacke said. โThat was the reason I started [paragliding] again.โ
Pic’s mentorship role with pupils like Hanganu and Stalnacke is an important ingredient to the sense of community that is shared amongst flyers in Chamonix. That community blossoms with events that promote and create space specifically for women to gather and fly together. โThereโs this event, it’s called the Women of Speed Flying,โ Hanganu says. โItโs not a competition, more like a meet-up. Girls from all over the world come. Itโs way more accessible in Val dโIsรจre, and you can do a lot of laps.”
The Women of Speed Flying event has become a yearly tradition in nearby Val d’Isere, two and a half hours from Chamonix. Women come to fly and participate in a speed riding-oriented game where entrants stack points by completing a ‘list’ of various tasks and activities. It’s a playful, friendly competition centered around speed riding that gets women from everywhere to meet up, fly, and then aprรจs at one of the on-mountain bars with live music afterwards. “It’s really fun,” Hanganu says.
Pic didnโt get to attend this year, but she believes in the mission. โI think itโs a good idea to push and motivate the girls,โ she says. โItโs a way to show that we have our place in the community. I personally love mixed events too, but I think this is a great initiative.โ
Still, the roots of this story go beyond new gatherings and hashtags. For Pic, supporting women in the sport was never separate from supporting the sport itself. โI tried to push the activity here in Chamonixโnot especially with the girls, but with the youngsters, with everybody,โ she says. โTo give a chance to this activity and make people understand it could be practiced in many ways.โ
That philosophy runs through how she teaches. โYou have to be a good skier. Absolutely. No discussion,โ Pic says. โYou have to be able to ski everything you want to speed ride. And you have to accept not to go too fast. A lot of accidents happen because people push too fast into strong places, or downsize their wing too early. Because it looks good on social media.โ
She pauses. โExtreme is not the goal. Itโs just one of the ways to practice.โ
Chamonix is both a home base and a testing ground. The community is tight-knit but diverse, with riders bringing a wide range of stylesโfrom freestyle-heavy lines to high-mountain technical descents. Nor is it just locals; people come from all over the planet, creating a mix of cultures, perspectives, and approaches. That blend is part of what keeps the scene dynamicโand what makes it such a compelling place to ride, according to Pic.
Hanganu agreesโbut notes that itโs not always easy to break in. โItโs kind of a clicky community here,โ she says. โYou have to trust your partners and for them to trust you. But with speed, even if you donโt fly the same line, youโre still in the gondola together. Youโre still on the same lap. It creates a big sense of community. Itโs why I keep doing this.โ
That openness is something Pic has always felt, even as one of the few women instructors. โIโve never felt anything bad about being a woman in this sport,โ she says. โIt has always been an advantage. If you take it the right way, men are super nice and ready to help. You just have to behave like a human, not like a woman. There are speed ridersโthatโs it. Whatever the gender.โ
The path to becoming an instructor in France is not easy. You need both your paragliding license and your ski instructor licenseโboth hard to get. Thatโs part of why so few are qualified. โItโs super hard to get in France,โ Hanganu says. โThereโs only a few that are doing it professionally, and even fewer women.โ
Still, the presence of women in speed ridingโboth in the air and behind the scenesโhas always been strong, at least in Chamonix. โItโs the same with mountain guides,โ Pic says. โThere are few women guides overall, but most of them are in Chamonix. Maybe itโs the role models. The climbers, the skiers, the people we grew up seeing. It makes you believe you can do it too.โ
For both Pic and Hanganu, longevity in the sport comes from knowing your limits and respecting the mountain. โYou have to be realistic about your level,โ Pic says. โYou have to be able to change places often. If you always ride the same spot, you donโt progress. And you canโt go too fast, especially with conditions or wing size. Iโve seen people die because they didnโt have the level. You need to know the air mass, the techniques, have full control.โ
Pic remembers the accident in 2012. She remembers tumbling for 400 meters and the time in the hospitalโall the surgeries and all the painful time spent convalescing and reflecting on her life. But she doesnโt have any remorse. โI wouldnโt change a single thing,” she says. “Iโve made my life in the air, and Iโll keep doing that. I have absolutely no regrets.โ
Speed riding is not a sport for those chasing likes on Instagram, according to Pic. Itโs for people who chase feeling. Who are okay with going slow to go far. Who know the mountain and their wing as well as themselves. โI think the most important thing is that pleasure must always be the engine,โ Pic says. โYou go for the old friendโthe joy, the ride, the moment.”
In Chamonix, more and more speed riders are women. They are not waiting to be invited in. Like valkyries, they are flying fast, high, and with grace on a sort of battlefield, except one where everyone is on the same side. All speed riders possess a deep desire to enjoy life to the fullest. This is what brought them to the sky in the first place; not to conquer it but to dance with it.
[An earlier version of this article misstated terminology associated with source Johanna Stalnacke, who is a paraglider and not a speed rider. It was updated at 2:44 a.m. MST on April 29, 2025]