Trip Report: Skiing the Antarctic Peninsula w/ Ice Axe Expeditions
Miles Clark |
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Brabant Isle, Antarctica. Â Nov 9th, 2014.
On November 9th, 2014, I set ski boot on the continent of Antarctica for the first time in my life.  Within 5 minutes of being on land, a monstrous (about the size of 3 houses) iceberg began to moan, crack, and then flip over less than 100 yards away from where we stood.  Within 6 minutes of being in Antarctica, I found myself running uphill, away from the ocean to avoid a potentially huge wave that the flipping iceberg threatened to send our way.  Welcome to Antarctica rookie…
Lazy fighting Gentoo Penguins. Antarctica. photo: the crew
93 skiing clients and 24 mountain guides set sail in the 331-foot Sea Adventurer from Ushuaia, Argentina (furthest south city on Earth) for the Antarctic Peninsula with Ice Axe Expeditions on November 6th, 2014. It took 2 days to traverse 600-miles of open ocean in the notorious Drake Passage.
Charles tearing up the lower slopes of Mt. Victoria, Brabant Isle, Antarctica. photo: snowbrains.com
The Drake crossing was uneventful on the way down and Beaufort force 12 (50-foot seas and 100+mph sustained winds) on the way home. The ride home across the Drake was rough and unforgettable.  Hundreds of bird followed us as we crossed the Drake each way including the largest wingspan bird on Earth (11ft, 6in), the mighty Wandering Albatross.
We encountered a group of around 60 humpback whales on our 2nd day of the Drake on our way to Antarctica.  The captain stopped the ship and the whales paraded around the boat for 15 minutes.  “Unreal”.
Humpback Whales in the Drake Passage. Â We saw about 60 of these guys in a big group on the way down. Â The white/blue in the water is the white flipper. photo: Juha Virolainen
This ski trip to Antarctica was by far the most interesting trip of my life.  Skiing great lines down to an ocean full icebergs that dwarfed our 331-foot ship was surreal.  For the entire first day, the scenery just wouldn’t register in my brain.  It all looked like a photograph – like a dream.  It took a couple of days to fully understand exactly what I was taking in all around me.  When I finally gained some true perspective, I was able to fully drink it in and it tasted wild.
Climbing up an unnamed peak with crampons on King George Isle on our last ski day, Nov. 14th, 2014.
Good skiing, penguins everywhere, daunting ice-cliffs, yawning crevasses, powder snow, flipping icebergs, copious whales, crystal clear water, leopard seals, a 5 star floating hotel, amazing meals, a vicious Black and White party, and the Polar Plunge made this trip almost too fun to psychologically digest.
Gorgeous Iceberg in Antarctica’s Chiriguano Bay, Brabant Isle. photo: Ariana Snowdon
In our six days on the Antarctic continent, we skied 5 islands and touched down on the Antarctic Peninsula itself.  Skiing conditions were spring-like the first day, crunchy the second, chalky the third, then full on Powder on the 4th and 5th day.
Gerlache Straight, Antarctica. Sunset. Nov. 9th, 2014. Â photo: Â the crew
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2014 ANTARCTICA TRIP SKIING DETAILS:
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Brabant Isle’s Chiriguano Bay. Red circles = landings/pick ups. Red arrows = lines skied. Google doesn’t have good imagery here… Â The farm on the right, Mt. Victoria on the left.
Day 1:  Chiriguano Bay – Brabant Isle
2 runs in the “Farm,” then crossed the bay on a Zodiac and skied off the shoulder of Mt. Victoria.  Mt. Victoria held good scratchy skiing off the shoulder then this terrific triple rollover, perfect corn covered terrain right to the beach.  Sunny, windless, perfect weather.  About 35ºF all day.
Damoy Point. Hut located on Bay. Red circle = landing/pick up. Red arrow = line skied. Â Mt. Jabbot.
Day 2: Â Damoy Point – Wiencke Isle
1 long run off Jabbot Peak.  Many Gentoo Penguins, visited the British Antarctic Survey’s Damoy Hut.  Stormy, snowing, very windy weather.  About 32ºF all day.
Paradise harbor with Lemaire Isle to the left and the Antarctic Peninsula to the right.
Day 3: Â Paradise Harbor – Antarctica and Lemaire Isle
1 windy, scratchy run on the peninsula, then 2 great, steep, powdery runs on Lemaire Isle’s Mt. Rojas.  Great skiing on Lemaire.  Snowing, windy, blowing snow.  About 32ºF all day.
Half Moon Isle floating above Livingston Isle. Red circle = landing/pick up. Red arrows = lines skied.
Day 4: Half Moon Bay – Livingston Isle
1 great powder run down an open slope.  1 long sweeping powder run down another long slope with an enormous and open crevasse at the top.  1 ridiculous powder run down a steep face with a spicy crevasse crossing.  Last run was a pure powder run – woulda been a great pow run anywhere.  Snowing, not too windy, cloudy weather.  About 32ºF all day.
Half Moon Isle floating above Livingston Isle. Red circle = landing/pick up. Red arrows = lines skied.
Day 5:Â Admiralty Bay – King George Isle
1 crampon/ice axe summit with splendiferous views and a long winding powder run down to a wide open glacier.  1 more great powder run down a steep peak with a long run out right to the beach for pick up.  This was our last run of the trip and it was a memorable one.  Snowy, sunny, quickly changing weather.  About 32ºF all day.
Guide Dan Starr ripping perfect corn in on Brabant Isle, Antarctica on Nov. 9th, 2014.
CONCLUSION:
I can’t express how incredible, intense, luxurious, and unique this trip was.  Incredible views and skiing, intense wildlife, luxurious anytime you were in the ship (except in the Drake Passage and during the Black and White party), and a relentlessly unique experience (I had to keep a log of all the “firsts” that I experienced on this trip).  There is simply nothing like Antarctica.  It truly is a world unto it’s own.
Adelie Penguin and whale bones on King George Isle. Â photo: Â the crew
Ice Axe Expeditions will be cruising to Antarctica to ski again in November 2015. Â I’ve been invited to guide the trip again and I’d love to share this experience with you and yours.
If interested, please email me here for the ski trip of a lifetime:
Contact@SnowBrains.com
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There’s really nothing more that I can convey to you in words about this place. Â I’ll let the 60 photos below tell the rest of the story. Â Many of the photos below are from our great clients. Â Thanks to everyone.
ANTARCTICAÂ PHOTO TOUR:
Force 12 Drake Passage madness on the way home. Big spray. photo: Ode SiivonenTodd AwfulFocker leading a team to the summit in Antarctica.Getting loose at the Black and White Party onboard the Sea Adventurer.Skiing steep pow on Livingston Isle. photo: Juha VirolainenThe most intense rainbow I’ve ever seen. Beagle Channel, Argentina/Chile. photo: snowbrains.comMountain guide Per Ã…s hucking his meat from the 4th Deck into 32ºF waters off King George Isle.  photo:  Forrest McCarthySunset in Gerlache Straight, Antarctica in Fip-Flops. photo: snowbrainsDown climbing an unnamed peak on King George Isle on November 14th, 2014.Leopard Seal + Teeth. photo: Arian SnowdonClimb on. Antarctica.  photo:  the crewChinstrap Penguin in Antarctica.  photo:  the crewOur Antarcitca guides know what’s important. 10,000 year old Glacier ice freshly harvest for whiskey drinking.  photo:  the crewGerlach Straight sunset it perfectly glassy waters after the Day 1 of skiing on Nov. 9th, 2014.  photo:  snowbrains.com32ºF water is cold, according to Eric’s face.  photo:  the crewGentoo Penguins patrying.  photo:  the crewGerlache Straight after the Day 1 of skiing on Nov. 9th, 2014.  photo:  snowbrains.comWeddell Seal. photo: Mike LibeckiMy excellent clients on Brabant Isle, Antarctica on Day 1 of skiing, Nov. 9th, 2014.  photo:  snowbrains.comIce Breaking in Sunset in Gerlache Straight, Antarctica in Fip-Flops. photo: snowbrainsHumpback Whales in the Drake Passage. photo: Juha VirolainenGuide Doug Workman focusing on staying dry on the Zodiac ride.  photo:  the crewWhatWhale bones on Chiriguano Bay on Brabant Isle, Antarctica, Nov. 9th, 2014.  photo:  Forrest McCarthyIceberg revealing blue in Antarctica.  photo: the crewWeddell yawn in Antarctica.  photo:  the crewBlue iceberg in Antarctica.  photo:  the crewWorking for some steep turns in Antarctica.  photo:  the crewDance Party at the Black and White Party onboard the Sea Adventurer.  photo:  the crewWeddel Seals and the Sea Adventurer.  photo:  the crewAdelie Penguins jumping from ice block to ice block on King George Isle.  photo:  the crewSkiing in Antarctica. photo: the crewSeth Morrison holding a rainbow in the Beagle Channel on our first day of the cruise on November 6th, 2014.  photo:  david rosenbergerGorgeous ski terrain in Antarctica.  photo:  the crewGetting loose at the Black and White Party onboard the Sea Adventurer.  photo:  the crewStellar cupped blue ice in Antarctica. photo: Ariana SnowdonStellar cupped blue ice in Antarctica. photo: Ariana Snowdon10,000 year old Glacier ice and whiskey. The living onboard the Sea Adventurer ain’t so rough…  photo:  snowbrains.comSlow for penguins! Not a normal thing to say in skiing, unless you’re in Antarctica. photo: Juha VirolainenThe Sea Adventurer proving she’s an ice breaker in Gerlache Straight, Antarctica.  photo:  the crewEsa and seals in Chiriguano Bay on Brabant Isle, Antarctica, Nov. 9th, 2014.  photo:  esaChiriguano Bay on Brabant Isle, Antarctica, Nov. 9th, 2014.  photo:  the crewMiles and clients claiming it in Antarctica. These Zodiacs are how we got around.  photo:  the crewMamood getting comfy on a snow day onboard the Sea Adventurer.  photo:  snowbrains.comGentoo Penguin in Antarctica.  photo:  the crewBiggest gear pile I’ve ever seen. Over 100 skis in there. Ushuaia, Argentina.  photo:  the crewHumpback Whales in the Drake Passage. photo: Juha VirolainenStunning double rainbow in the Beagle Channel on our way to Antarctica.  photo:  the crewA fuzzy shot of our 6 days in Antarctica.  photo:  snowbrains.comSunset in Gerlache Straight, Antarctica.  photo:  snowbrains.comGuide Jules Hanna and the Gerlache Striaght, Antarctica. photo: snowbrains.comAdelie Penguin and lighthouse on King George Isle, Antarctica.  photo:  snowbrains.comCrabeater Seal, Antarctica.  photo:  the crewRainbow and sailboat. Beagle Channel, Argentina/Chile. photo: snowbrains.com
17 thoughts on “Trip Report: Skiing the Antarctic Peninsula w/ Ice Axe Expeditions”
Thanks, Miles for a great trip report with some fabulous pics! Antarctica was truly a surreal place to ski. I hope our paths cross again before too much time passes!
Miles, thank you for your wonderful trip report, it truly reflects everything we experienced. I am still in awe of all the wonderful sites we visited and the fact that we skied in this totally surreal landscape.
See you in Tahoe, Rike
Hey Miles thanks for sharing. This looks like the trip of a lifetime. I’m looking forward to seeing what Snowbrains puts out there this season and I hope this place blows up in a good way. You guys put out great content and deserve the recognition!
So great to see this photos. Went a couple years ago. Once on the boat, I don’t think I realized it would come to end. I just wanted to keep sailing and skiing with all these cool people. The wildlife, the skiing and the people…such a special trip. We got a Drake’s Crossing Huricane too- total blast! Boom!
Thanks, Miles for a great trip report with some fabulous pics! Antarctica was truly a surreal place to ski. I hope our paths cross again before too much time passes!
Robbie, it was great hanging out with you in such an incredible place. I’m sure our paths will cross again soon. Come out to Tahoe sometime.
Miles, thank you for your wonderful trip report, it truly reflects everything we experienced. I am still in awe of all the wonderful sites we visited and the fact that we skied in this totally surreal landscape.
See you in Tahoe, Rike
Thanks, Rike. Yep, as surreal as it gets. Yes, see you in Tahoe. I move up on Monday.
Great write up Miles. It was indeed a superb trip and I feel lucky to have been part of it. It was great meeting everybody and what great photos.
Outstanding write-up my friend. Trip looked amazing. I’ll start collecting cans now.
Shit Howdy!
Exotic, ethereal, enchanting.
You’ve been around the world skiing and surfing, but nothing of this stature.
Impressive!
MB
Hey Miles thanks for sharing. This looks like the trip of a lifetime. I’m looking forward to seeing what Snowbrains puts out there this season and I hope this place blows up in a good way. You guys put out great content and deserve the recognition!
Thanks for the kind words and support, Grant. Much appreciated. We’re just hoping it’s a big snow year for North America. C’mon winter!
Long time friend of Miles’. Amazing dude! What an experience!!!
Pete! thanks dude! Lets ski when you come home.
So great to see this photos. Went a couple years ago. Once on the boat, I don’t think I realized it would come to end. I just wanted to keep sailing and skiing with all these cool people. The wildlife, the skiing and the people…such a special trip. We got a Drake’s Crossing Huricane too- total blast! Boom!
Nice meeting you Miles and so much fun comparing and sharing our Antarctic adventures! Love the pics and stories, what an experience!