Refugio López, Argentina Backcountry Report: Incredible Late Season Skiing In South America

Refugio López overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi just after sunrise | Image: Brett Ploss

Report from September 17-18, 2024

Day 1

We started the morning in San Martin de Los Andes, where we spent the previous day at Cerro Chapelco, a four-hour drive from Cerro López. The drive during daylight along the Ruta de Los Siete Lagos was incredible. Passing through national parks, stunning miradors of calm lakes reflecting the Andes, and the occasional cow in our lane.

We stopped at Cerro Bayo (pronounced « bah-joe » by the locals) for a few hours to lap lifts and take in the incredible scenery of Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Continuing on the remaining two-hour drive to the base of Cerro López included passing through the picturesque mountain town of Bariloche.

At the quaint roadside parking area, we finished putting the remaining items into our packs, including a sleeping bag, food, water, and ski equipment. Lastly, we popped our skins on and attached skis onto our backs for the first section of the hike, which was completely dry.

Skiers Max Bott and Brett Ploss beginning the dry ascent to Refugio López | Image: Local

Skier Max Bott overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi on the initial push up to Roca Negra and the skin track | Image: Brett Ploss

Skier Max Bott makes the final push to the skin track under the setting sun | Image: Brett Ploss

For the first hour, the hike was full of roots and loose rocks up a steep section of dry dirt. Eventually, we stopped at the first patch without trees, where it opened up to an incredible panoramic view of the lake below.

The next stop was Roca Negra, a hut closed in the winter about halfway up to López. A spring of fresh, cold mountain water was coming out of a hose, which made for a perfect refreshment.

Slightly higher, we transitioned to skins and began with a much faster pace on a less angled slope. The sun began to set, and we continued through twilight.

As we skinned higher, the quantity of snow increased rapidly. It was illuminated under a clear sky and a full moon, which reflected off the snow to light up the mountain.

Skier Max Bott making his way up the skin track to Refugio López | Image: Brett Ploss

Skier Brett Ploss on the way up to Refugio López | Image: Max Bott

Skier Max Bott on his final ascent to the refuge | Image: Brett Ploss

The full moon lighting up the mountainside just before the lunar eclipse | Image: Brett Ploss

Making our final ascent to Refugio López | Image: Brett Ploss

Refugio López came into view along the last steep ascent, with the Southern Cross visible in the distance above Cerro López.

The keepers explained there was going to be a lunar eclipse shortly after our arrival. Conditions could not have been better to sit outside and watch a sliver of the moon disappear for a few minutes.

Once inside, we were greeted with a much needed meal | Image: Brett Ploss

The wood stove heating our room | Image: Brett Ploss

After, we had a much needed candlelight dinner finished with dulce de lèche, then slipped into our sleeping bags next to the wood furnace.

Day 2

The Argentinian flag flying above Refugio López and Lago Nahuel Huapi below | Image: Brett Ploss

We awoke during sunrise and started the day with oatmeal before getting into our skis and continuing up towards the peak. Jagged rocks and impressive chutes filled the vicinity.

Due to the lack of snow over the past week, a skin track was well set into the mountainside. Fields of snow filled either direction. About an hour up, there was a flat area, where a lake sits in the summertime.

We transitioned to downhill here and took a lap. The snow had just started to soften, which led to perfect conditions for a quick descent with long, fast turns back down to the hut.

From here, we skinned up again and decided to head to the peak lookers left of Cerro López. It was an additional 30-45 minutes up to the top of the bowl. Along the way, gnarly tight chutes filled with snow lined the cathedral spire-looking rock formations. Most would be tough to get into without an ice axe, crampons, and ropes to rappel into. Next time!

From the top, it was possible to see most of Bariloche and Lago Nahuel Huapi below. Off the back, the impressive Cerro Tronador and Volcán Osorno of Chile were visible in the distance.

We dropped in and took quick long turns on the soft sun-beat snow. The runout over the frozen lake was a great finale to this upper section.

The bowl above Refugio López with tight chutes visible in the upper right | Image: Max Bott

Skier Brett Ploss ascending the bowl lookers left of Cerro López | Image: Max Bott

Cerro Tronador and Volcán Osorno visible in the distance from the peak | Image: Brett Ploss

Skier Brett Ploss descending the bowl lookers left of Cerro López | Image: Max Bott

Skier Brett Ploss just after descending the peak | Image: Max Bott

The best part was knowing we were not even halfway back down to the refugio. The last section started to get a little too soft but remained full of wide-open, untouched snow fields. Our turns felt great and relaxed as we made our final descent to the hut. The views of the lake continued to be stunning.

Once back at the hut, we skied down as far as we could go, crossing a few streams while utilizing the last bits of snow. We transitioned back to our packs and made the walk down in under an hour. It was steep with loose rocks/dirt but made for a great end to 20hrs on the mountain.

We can’t wait to come back!

Using the remaining snow as it deteriorated quickly below the refugio before transitioning back to packs | Image: Brett Ploss

A final open view of Lago Nahuel Huapi on the descent | Image: Brett Ploss

Refugio López

The refugio cat looking out at the scenic views from inside | Image: Brett Ploss

Refugio López is a year-round mountain hut located halfway to the top of Cerro López, near San Carlos de Bariloche. Sitting at an elevation of 5,315 feet, it offers stunning views of Nahuel Huapi Lake, Lake Moreno, and the surrounding Andes mountains of Patagonia.

The hut provides food, drinks, and bunk beds requiring packing in a sleeping bag for those wishing to stay overnight. It serves as a base for more advanced climbs, including the summit of Cerro López at 6,808 feet. It was originally built in 1933 by the Club Andino Bariloche and named after local mountaineer Carlos López, who mapped the area.

The hike to the refugio is roughly 2.5 miles and takes approximately 2-3 hours, with an altitude gain of 2,624 feet. Later in the season, the route begins well below the snow level, meaning hikers need to start with a pack then transition to skins 2/3 of the way to the hut. In the vicinity, there are four other manned huts for multi-day trips.

To contact the hut, it is best to text using WhatsApp +54 9 2944 34-1194 or find information on their Instagram.