Trip Report: 13,996′ Mt. Humphreys “East Couloirs” | Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, CA

Miles Clark | | Post Tag for Conditions ReportConditions ReportPost Tag for Trip ReportTrip Report

Report from May 11, 2024

Yesterday we went for a classic.

13,996′ Mt. Humphreys in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains of California.

This is one of 4 mountains on my wedding ring and I’d never skied it…

13,996′ Mt. Humphreys

“East Couliors”

Sierra Nevada Mountains, CA

  • Summit (actually a ridgeline):  13,400 feet
  • Car:  8,900 feet
  • Vertical From Car:  5,000 feet 
  • Vertical skied:  1,000′ in the East Couloir, 1,500′ of glorious corn down to Longely Lake, 900′ more down to the snow line (3,400 total)
  • Max Pitch:  45+º in East Couloir
  • Average Pitch:  ??º
  • Aspect:  E 
  • Distance:  10-miles round trip
  • Time From Car to Summit:  5 hours & 30 minutes
  • Car to Car Time:  8 hours & 15 minutes
  • Recommended Equipment:  crampons, ice axe x2, skins
Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains

The Buttermilk Road is passable nearly all the way to the Upper Buttermilk Trailhead right now.

We drove as high as we could and parked.

Hiking began at 9am.

Dobbs shine. image: snowbrains

55 minutes later, we were on snow.

We dropped our shoes, slapped on our boots, skis, skins, and started up.

I was tired…

Jason Dobbs. image: snowbrains

Greggy lead the charge up to Longely Lake at 10,700′.

It was already 11:30pm and I was worried about being late and skiing bulletproof snow in the shade.

I still have PTSD from our shaded Wahoo Gullies run 3 days ago…

Skier’s right East Chute. image: snowbrains

I made a plan and started moving quick.

I got up to the base of the chute at 12,200′ by 1pm.

From there the booter was tough.

Middle East Chute. image: snowbrains

Deep, transitional snow left me booting shin to knee-deep most of the way.

We’d chosen the middle East Couloir and the thing ended up steeper than expected.

Halfway up, where the chute dogleged, it just got vertical.

Dobbs, Greggy, and Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains

At the dogleg, the snow changed from slop to powder and I was encouraged.

Then the thing steepened even more (50º?) and the snow got firm and punchy.

Yuck.

Middle East Chute getting steeper. image: snowbrains

The only saving grace was that I knew it was flat at the top and that we’d have access to the other 2 East Couloirs.

The very top was super steep and narrow and the decision to abort was easy.

I topped out first and investigated the skier’s right East Couloir.

Shine. image: snowbrains

It looked mellow with an easy entrance which was just what I needed after being gripped climbing with 2 ice axes for the previous 30 minutes.

Dobbs topped out and I told him the plan.

He was relieved as well but was still willing to ski the steep one.

Greggy and Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains

Not me.

We bumped over to the skier’s right East Chute and got ready.

This is the chute I’d initially planned on skiing.

Pipsqueak Peak. image: snowbrains

It was steep, mostly straight, well-walled, beautiful, and consistent.

The snow appeared to be powdery on the right and kinda nasty on the left.

I dropped first and the smooth soft snow was actually smooth firm and breakable snow.

Dobbs on top. image: snowbrains

Sketchy.

I pulled hard right towards some large orange peel-textured snow directly against the wall and found it soft and carvable.

I stuck in the big orange peel as long as possible then popped into the smooth firm snow to get around to the next snowy alcove.

Vista. image: snowbrains

Same situation here:  get into the steep orange peel against the wall and work it as far as possible.

I did this 3 times before I ran outta orange peel and had to commit to the smooth, firm, breakable snow and the wet, cooked rollerball mank on the left.

Dobbs dropped in and kicked off a small wet slide.

Humpreys East Wall. image: snowbrains

I watched it slowly burbling towards me and had to make a decision:

  • Move to the side and watch it roll by risking it potentially grabbing me 
  • Hurry the hell up and hack my way to the bottom of the chute and properly get outta the way
NE Chute on Humphreys. image: snowbrains

I chose the later and moving quickly in the wet, cooked rollerball mank was a stolid challenge.

I pulled out of the chute and watched the slide gurgle by.

I then crossed the slide and slid smooth corn down to an awaiting Greggy at the base of the middle East Couloir.

Mt. Tom & The White Mountains. image: snowbrains

Dobbs showed up shortly thereafter and we party skied down to Longely Lake in the best corn of the season!

We’ve been going hard and high in search of good snow and haven’t quite found it yet.

This corny consultation prize tasted delicious.

Greggy on Longely Lake after perfect corn. image: snowbrains

Past Longely Lake there’s a bit of up and down and bushwhack and we skied down to 9,800′.

Shoes on felt so good…

About an hour of trail bopping and snow walking later, we were back at the car.

Middle East Chute. image: snowbrains

I was elated.

I loved every minute of it.

Every challenge of it.

Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains

We never saw another human the entire day.

I told the guys in the car as we bounced down in 4×4 low, “These are the good old days!”

I meant it.

4x4ing, big mountains, no one around, amazing skiing, insane vistas, delectable burritos, and unforgettable friends in human bodies that can still achieve such feats.

Team ATK. image: snowbrains

These are the good old days.

Taqueria Mi Guadalajara taco truck was the best Mexican food we’ve ever had, again.

Thanks, California!

Photos in Chronological Order

Miles Clark Skiing 13,996′ Mt. Humphreys in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains of California on May 11, 2024
Mt. Tom. image: snowbrains
Greggy and the Hump. image: snowbrains
Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains
Greggy and Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains
Greggy, Dobbs, and Locke Mountain. image: snowbrains
Mt. Locke. image: snowbrains
Hikers in the mist. image: snowbrains
Tahoe Trail Bar! image: snowbrains
Up! image: snowbrains
Top of the middle East Chute. image: snowbrains
Mt. Gabb. image: snowbrains
Dobbs topping out. image: snowbrains
Dobbs finishing the climb. image: snowbrains
Mt. Geothe. image: snowbrains
Dobbs. image: snowbrains
Miles about to drop. image: snowbrains
Glistening wet slide and tracks. image: snowbrains
Mt. Humphreys. image: snowbrains
Shine. image: snowbrains
Greggy. image: snowbrains
Greggy slide. image: snowbrains
Dobbs shine. image: snowbrains
Where’s Dobbs? image: snowbrains
Corn tracks. image: snowbrains
Dobbs headed home. image: snowbrains
Mt. Locke. image: snowbrains
Locke, Dobbs, Greggy. image: snowbrains
Dobbs homecoming heel click. image: snowbrains

Taqueria Mi Guadalara is the bomb. image: snowbrains
Taqueria Mi Guadalajara burrito. image: snowbrains

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