Report from August 29, 2024

One of the most gorgeous places on Earth is Bariloche, Argentina’s 6,811′ Cerro Lopez.

The most breathtaking hike of my life was summiting this mountain and taking its north ridge right down into Lake Nahuel Huapi in March 2009.

In July 2009, I skied from just above Refugio Lopez but never from the summit proper.

On Thursday, I realized it was time…

6,811′ Cerro Lopez, Argentina

• Summit: 6,811′
• Car: 2,800′
• Vertical From Car: 4,011′
• Vertical skied: 2,000′ (another 800′ skiing down the road)
• Max Pitch: 40º 
• Avg Pitch: 35º 
• Aspect:  East Northeast
• Distance: 8.5 miles round trip (likely about two extra miles as we took the road’s switchbacks on the way down)
• Time From Car to Top: 4 hours and 4 minutes
• Car to Car Time: 6 hours & 50 minutes
• Recommended Equipment: Crampons, Ice Axe, Skins

Greggy and I loaded the car and hit the road a few minutes past 8 am.

We drove through dense forests, panorama points, vicious views, and stray horses.

We arrived at the trailhead already in awe of our surroundings and started hiking just after 9 am.

The initial trail was straight up, featuring frustrating loose rock trails.

We kept our heads down and, after about 1 hour and 15 minutes, made it to the Roca Negra Refugio in good time.

We took a break there to take in the insane views and continued.

The trail quickly eased onto a flat road that led us directly to the Cerro Lopez Refugio.

We were shocked to find an empty tent city outside the hut and a low buzz of activity.

We stopped for a snack and more jaw-dropping vista inspiration.

From the hut, we followed a steep, zig-zagging skin track to the summit ridge.

We took our time on the ascent, stopping for frequent photos and Andean Condor sightings.

Some of the condors were so big it looked like they could have carried us away (10′ wingspans).

On top, we played with the drone and allowed our faces to be melted off by the constant visual pounding of the local landscape.

Simply sensational views in every direction.

Tronador Volcano, Osorno Volcano, Putiagudo Volcano, Lake Nahuel Huapi and her islands, the Catedral Towers, and the endless crisscrossing ridges of the longest mountain range on Earth.

After a quick bite, it was time to ski.

We dropped into something resembling powder that quickly morphed into something resembling corn.

We skied a fun wind spine down the first pitch.

After crossing a short, flat spot, we dove into glorious, soft spring snow and charged right back down to the Lopez Refugio.

We were elated.

We’d genuinely expected the snow to be heinous.

The snow was lovely, and we beamed.

One more short pitch of half corn, half ice put us back on the road.

We were greedy and skied the road’s endless switchbacks back to the Roca Negra Refugio.

We probably should have gotten back on the trail sooner, but it just worked out (quite a few melted-out patches were patched), and we were happy.

From there, it was a true workout with heavy packs and a steep trail.

My legs were quivering when we reached the gracious flats, the trailhead, and our car.

On the way home, we stopped at the “Oveja Negra” for scrumptious empanadas.

After a protein shake, shower, stretch, and nap, we went to Mariano’s brother’s house for gnocchi dinner.

Food wasn’t served until after 10 p.m. (normal here), and the gnocchi were some of the best I’ve had.

I was stuffed and ready for bed after a vicious round of Jauja ice cream (Moose del Piltri is stupid good).

Some of the best sleep I’ve had…

Thanks, Argentina!

Photos in Chronological Order