I probably shouldn’t write this story because of the intense bias I have towards Bariloche. I think it’s similar to when you say – “no offense but…”. It gives you free license to say whatever you want afterwards and no offense can possibly be taken, right? So it is with me declaring my bias for Bariloche. If I declare it outright, I can exaggerate Bariloche’s level-of-radness all I want, right?
WHY BARILOCHE IS GREAT:
– The biggest ski resort in South America, Catedral (40 lifts, 3,000+ acres, 3,773 vertical feet)
– Stunning vistas including one view ranked #8 most beautiful view on Earth (Campinario)
– The discotecas (dance clubs) go off 7 nights a week
– Unrivaled tree skiing (no leaves, no low branches, no tree wells, good spacing)
– Steep, convoluted, rocky, cliff, complex terrain features are abundant
– The city has over 150,000 people
– #1 tourist destination in Argentina
– Beautiful men & women are everywhere
– The local people are horribly friendly and will invite you to asados (BBQs) within 5 minutes of meeting you
– Local breweries and chocolate shops are top notch and ubiquitous
Ok, now that I got all that off my chest, I can start talking about the skiing. Catedral ski resort in Bariloche is suberb because of the simple side-country access. You ride lifts up, engage in a bit of hiking, and you’re into some killer terrain.
You can get into some big terrain from the ski resort with only 30-40 minutes of hiking (“Little Alaska” & more). You an opt for a shelfy cliff zone called La Laguna (very similar to some Tahoe terrain) with a quick 15-minute hike. A couple hours of skiing and walking get you into the steeper, longer, more challenging terrain of Refugio Frey. The out-of-bound possiblities at Catedral are tremendous.
In bounds, Catedral’s terrain is very similar to Mammoth ski resort. Long, sloping runs with no trees at all on top, then tree-cut runs at the bottom. The main difference here being the thick swaths of bamboo that cover the forest floors of lower Catedral.
The old growth tree skiing in Bariloche is unparalleled. Large Lenga trees shed their leaves in the winter, have no deadly tree wells, few low branches, and have spacing that every skier will admire. Iridescent spanish moss hangs from every branch and adds to these forests’ enchantment. Downed trees create fun pillows to pop off at low snow levels.
It generally snows a lot. They don’t exactly keep records, so there aren’t accurate snowfall averages, but it’s likely around 300” near the top (only a 3 month season). Big storms are ferocious and I’ve still never seen it snow as hard as I’ve seen it snow at Catedral.
That said, Catedral’s only drawback is its elevation. The base is 3,379 feet, the summit is 7,152 feet, and the latitude is only 41 degrees South of the equator (the equivalent of Northern California in northern hemisphere). This translates to some seasons with lots of rain down low. Which isn’t too big a problem, as all the best terrain is up high and it almost always snows up there.
What do you do in Bariloche when the snow isn’t good or when the mountain is closed on huge storm days? This is where Bariloche shines brightest. I’ve never been to a new world ‘ski town’ with so much to offer. Bariloche has over 200 restaurants along with a plethora of nightclubs, bars, casinos, and even brothels. The place lights up at night and the beautiful people come out play. Argentines are world renown for their beauty, large eyes, long eyelashes, and ability to have a good time. Brazilians are known to have a bit of fun as well and when the two come out in tourist-vactaion-force together, it can get wild. When the snow is bad on the hill, the times are still good in town.
I could go on about Bariloche and its people, culture, scenery, food, wine, ski terrain, snow, beer, flora, fauna, and fresh air, but I’ll leave it for another article. For now, you can be satisfied knowing that there is an amazing ski town in the middle-of-nowhere that has everything you’ve ever wanted.
ma encantaria muchisimo ir
By the ski area’s own marketing materials, Catedral averages only 240 inches at the top and 60 inches at the base. I’ve read numerous reports that the lower third of the mountain must routinely be downloaded and that it rains quite a bit down there. You’re not going to be able to cherry pick those rare days when the bamboo forests have good snow and storm chase from North America. Catedral also has partially sunny exposure, not good for a low snowfall, low elevation area. Visiting skiers to the Bariloche area often find better snow at Cerro Bayo or La Hoya with more south exposure.
I have no doubt that Bariloche is a beautiful and friendly resort town. But when I eventually get there I’ll want a car and a flexible schedule to optimize the skiing.
How much longer can a ski area at that elevation and latitude survive in a warming world? How many mid-mountain rain days did Catedral have last year? My friends who have been report a lot of sloppy days.
From those who have been, or are in the know. Can you still get a season pass there? if so how much? What is the cost of living within bus route of the resort. Seriously contemplating going there for the summer.
This has got me buzzing for Argentina….Fly out on the 4th July to spend the season in Bariloche….Yimmers get down there!!
Bariloche es un lugar turistico como pocos. Se puede esquiar y disfrutar de una ciudad encantadora.Sus paisajes son magnificos. Lo mejor es que este lugar paradisiaco esta en mi pais.ARGENTINA!!!!!!
Mate, great report.. Bariloche is my hometown and its the place where i learn to ski when i was very little, my grandfather was one of the founders of the ski club in the 50´s and we have a great family tradition for the outdors and all that.
all of you that have thought about coming to south america for skiing should try to at least get a couple of days in Bariloche, all the mountains in south america have their own beautiful charm, and every mountain offers different stuff. Bariloche is deffinately the more complete one, altought it does suffer from small snowfalls from time to time as the mt is pretty low (2100mt summit). but when you get snow, like right now!! (its dumping like it hasnt inover 10 years) it is great fun.
if any one has any questions about Bari shoot out!
cheers,
Hey what are the costs for a season pass, and costs of living within bus route of the resort?
We couldn’t agree more that is why have been operating SASS Argentina at Cerro Catedral and in Bariloche for 7 years. if you are looking to come down why not look at doing it with us. Backcountry education, and guides that will get you into those hard to know and reach locations.
http://www.sassglobaltravel.com/argentina/
Bariloche rules. Bring on the Argie TRs!
Went there more than 20 times. Going again this year. Bariloche is the most skiing atmosphere you can feel.
Have you heard this is the area where 30,000 -100,000 Nazis immigrated to after World War II including Hitler himself.
It was a blessed year of living in Bariloche. But yes, there is a big history of Nazis moving there after the way, and there is still some side effects of that. Like swastikas spray-painted around town, etc. But there is also a great history of locals taking back control and putting those f*ckers in jail. Great documentary made on the subject by some local filmmakers….only in Spanish though.
That all said, Frey was the shit. Great north and south facing terrain. Winter ski touring, summer climbing granite…heaven.
I thoroughly
AGREE with you about San Carlos de Bariloche. C’est superbe! C’est le paradis.
I am super grateful to have called Bariloche home for 3 years. Like Tahoe on Steroids!
Yes please!
In 1992 we did the “lake district crossing”(boat/bus/boat/bus/boat) from Chile to Argentina. The scenery is reminiscent of the Alps. Bariloche is a perfect mountain town; food is delicious, people are warm and friendly(love to hug!), and the area offers a plethora of outdoor activities. Similar to Tahoe, but not as easy to get to, so stay on the continent for a while! P.S. Prepare for Patagonia winds
Well u sol that well. Been thinking of doing a trip down south. Bariloche is high on the lis now.
Dang it. Time to hop on a plane.
I never heard there was terrain like that there. Rethinking my lenas trip now.
Bariloche rocks. Met my wife there.