How To Train Yourself To Step On The Top Of The World while living in Colorado

Claire Weiss |
Mount Everest. Photo credit: Telegraph.co.uk

 

Everybody knows about Mount Everest and some of us may even dreamed to step up on top of the world. But only few peopleย actually climbed that mountain.

โ€œOn the summit day, you feel like youโ€™re really, totally on the edge. ย If anything goes wrong โ€” it was scarier than I thought it would be.โ€

–Doctor Tracee Metcalfe

Here is the story. Doctor Tracee Metcalfe works asย internist in Vail, Colorado and is affiliated with Vail Valley Medical Center. She has received her medical degree from University of Colorado Denver School of Medicine and has been practicing forย more than 10 years. But she is not just a doctor, she is also a mountain climber. She climbed all of Colorado 14-ers and Denali. She has also served asย base-camp doctor for multiple expeditions in Nepal. Recently she summitedย Mt Everest. She alsoย finished 40-mile Elk Mountain Grand Traverse as well as few other backcountry ski races.

Do you want to know how she was preparing for her main accomplishment – Mt Everest summit?

There are several main sections of the way to the top of Mount Everest, and they are all quite challenging and even dangerous. It requires physical ย strength, ability to navigate on steep slopes around crevasses and ice seracs. ย Not to mention thin air. So the proper preparation is a part ofย successful climb.

Mount Everest route. Photo credit: National Geographic

These areย theย training tips from Doctor Tracee.

1. Trek to Everest Base Camp (9300 to 17598 feet)

The first section is a trek to Everest Base camp, which is located on a moving glacier, where tents can shift and platforms melt. The area is harsh but beautiful surrounded by Pumori and the Khumbu Icefall with warm mornings and afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition tents, pathways and generators, it feels like a small village.ย Starting fromย Lukla at 2,800 m (9,186 ft), a small town containing an airstripย โ€œHillary-Tenzing Airportโ€ย (the only airport in the region), the trek passes through numerous Sherpaย villages and variety of Tibetan influenced monasteries. Although it is the easiest section of the route, it’s still challenging as it is quite long and is passing at the high altitudes up to 17,600 feet.

Is there anything comparable to the trek? Dr Tracee thinks that Colorado Trail is a great option!

The Colorado Trail is Coloradoโ€™s premier long distance trail. It stretches ย 486 miles from Denver to Durangoย andย travels through the spectacular Colorado Rocky Mountains amongst peaks with lakes, creeks and diverse ecosystems. Trail users experience six wilderness areas and eight mountain ranges topping out at 13,271 feet, just below Coney Summit at 13,334 feet. The average elevation is over 10,000 feet and it rises and falls dramatically. Hikersย traveling from Denver to Durango will climb 89,354 feet.

— Coloradotrail.org

Large part of the trail goes along the Continental divide trail. It is divided into 28 segments and you can find the detailed information about each segment ย here. Thru-hiking CT can be a great preparation for 130 km of Everest Base Camp trek, although altitude is lower, but summiting few 14ers and 13ers could be very helpful!

 

2.ย The Khumbu Icefall: Everest Base Camp to Camp Iย (17,598 to 19,685 feet)

Reaching Camp 1 is the most dangerous part of the South Routeย since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice, ย shifting sometimes as much as 3 feet a day. But it is the deep crevasses, towering ice seracs and avalanches off Everestโ€™s West shoulder that creates the most danger.

Khumbu Icefall. Photo credit: National Geographic

What could be comparable to the icefall? Yes, it’s Fang, Colorado! ย The Fang is very popular among climbersย duringย winter months. ย At this timeย the waterfall will freeze into a thick ice pole that isย 26 foot wide, 165 foot tall. Climbing to the top of the waterfall is very difficult. Here are some tipsย for climbing the waterfall.

The Fang Waterfall, Colorado. Photo credit: wikipedia

 

3.ย Camp I to Camp IIย (19,685 to 21,000 feet)

The route to Camp 2 comes through a U-shaped valley which is surrounded by Lhotse, Nuptse and Everest. It is also known as “Valley of Silence” , as it is protected from the wind.ย There are additional crevasse crossings, a combination of large lateral crevasses crossing the route and smaller ones hidden underย thin snow bridges, on this broad and rolling glacial snow climb. This is where elevation starts to play a big role in stealing climbersโ€™ breath.

 

Valley of Silence. Photo credit: www.twoadventurists.com

 

According to Dr Tracee, some of the more challenging traverses between Colorado fourteenersโ€”like winter connectors Little Bear to La Blanca or Mt. Wilson to El Dienteโ€”are solid conditioning. Metcalfe also completed the 40-mile winter Elk Mountain Grand Traverse from Crested Butte to Aspen four times.

Little Bear -La Blanca traverse. Photo credit: Brandon and Kristine Chalk

 

4. The Lhotse Face: Camp II to Camp IIIย (21,000 to 23,625 feet)

This a steep wall of hard ice, about 30 – 45 degrees. Camp 3 is located halfway up, on a shelf cut into the face.

The Lhotse Face. Photo credit: http://andyoneverest.weebly.com/blog

Dr Tracee suggests the following options ย – either Dragon’s tail couloir or climbing south of Maroon Bells peaks.

Dragon’s tailย couloir is a very steep and dangerous south – south-east facing couloir off Flattop Mountain.

The 1500 ft climb starts gradually and increases in steepness as the couloir narrows towards the top, reaching somewhere around 50 degrees. Depending on conditions, this may be a very classic straightforward snow climb, or you may have to deal with a few rock/icy steps on the way up.

— theoutbound.com

Dragon’s Tail Couloir. Photo credit: www.commerceandcouloir.com

 

5.ย Yellow Band and Geneva Spur: Camp III to Camp IVย (23,625 to 26,085 feet)

This is the traverse across 40 degree icy slope. There are two rocky features ย – Yellow Band and Geneva Spur – which climbers should negotiate watching for rock falls. ย The last part of the section toward Camp 4 is very steep, and once you get there you’re in the Death Zone.

Dr Metcalfe suggest climbing snow and ice walls wearing full Everest footwear.ย She climbed Silverton mountain as a preparation for that section.

Silverton Mountain. Photo credit: uncoveredcolorado.com

 

And the last and final section on the way to the summit:

6.ย South Col: Camp IV to Summitย (26,085 to 29,029 feet)

This section involves steep snow climb, exposed ridge as well as rock climb of Hilary Step. ย The first milestone is the “Balcony” โ€“ a flat area on the ridge, then there is aย 60 degree rock slab, and the last section isย infamous Hilary Step โ€“ a 20 meter rock climb at 8700m!

The death zone, inย mountaineering, refers toย altitudesย above a certain point where the amount ofย oxygenย is insufficient to sustainย humanย life.

 

Everest High Camp (Camp 4). Photo credit: everestbasecamptrekguide.com

The oxygen level here is only 30% of partial oxygen pressure at sea level. You can’t train your body to accommodate to that altitude. As for physical training theย winter connectors Little Bear to La Blanca or Mt. Wilson to El Diente could be a good preparation for the climb in accordance with Dr Tracee.

 

But remember, climbing the mountain is optional, but descending is mandatory..

 

 

 

 


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