Climbers Reach Summit of One of the World’s Highest Unclimbed Mountains

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Yermanendu Kangri
Yermanendu Kangri. Credit: Unsplash

Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have completed the first ascent of Yermanendu Kangri, a 23,501 ft (7,163-meter) peak near Masherbrum in the Karakoram range. The climbers set up Base Camp on July 1 and announced their summit push two days ago. They were alone throughout the expedition. The successful ascent marks the first summit news from the ongoing expeditions in Pakistan.

Yermanendu Kangri was previously the tenth-highest unclimbed peak in the world. Messner and Sieberer’s achievement adds to the rich history of mountaineering in the Karakoram range. They followed a pure climbing style without bottled oxygen and operated in a small team without high-altitude porters.

Other exciting expeditions are currently underway in Pakistan. Czech climbers are on Muchu Chhish, Denis Urubko and Pipi Cardell on Gasherbrum I, Matteo della Bordella and team on Baintha Brakk I (The Ogre I), Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima on Tirich Mir, Jeff and Priti Wright on K7 Central, and Bru Busom and team on Saraghrar. Sergey Nilov and Dimitri Golovchenko are preparing for Gasherbrum IV.

Messner and Sieberer, a well-rehearsed Karakoram team, previously made the first ascent of Black Tooth in 2019. Their attempt to summit Praqpa Ri near K2 in 2021 was unsuccessful.

Further details about Messner and Sieberer’s summit success on Yermanendu Kangri are unavailable. Their accomplishment highlights the ongoing premier league of alpinism in Pakistan.

Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer. Credit: Muhammad Zaman

The top ten highest unclimbed peaks now are:

1. Masherbrum (Northeast Face) – 25,659 ft
2. Gangkhar Puensum – 24,836 ft
3. Annapurna III (Southeast Ridge) – 24,787 ft
4. Muchu Chhish – 24,452 ft
5. Kabru – 24,318 ft
6. Labuche Kang III – 23,786 ft
7. Karjiang South – 23,691 ft
8. Tongshanjiabu – 23,645 ft
9. Latok I (North Ridge) – 23,442 ft
10. Machapuchare – 22,943 ft

Yermanendu Kangri.

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