pichilemu

Yesterday, I surfed with Penguins. Three of them. I was waiting for a wave and three of ’em popped out of the water and just stared at me. I stared back and paddled a bit closer in awe. After about 3 minutes, they dove, never to be seen again… The coolest thing that’s happened to me in surfing. Ok, now it’s time to get more objective. Tuesday was about head high and smooth and great. Wednesday was about the same but maybe even more fun. Yesterday, things backed off a bit and I surfed the wrong tide (low tide is better here) but still had fun […]