surf report

Chile Surf & Culture Report: Surfing with Penguins…

Yesterday, I surfed with Penguins. Three of them. I was waiting for a wave and three of ’em popped out of the water and just stared at me. I stared back and paddled a bit closer in awe. After about 3 minutes, they dove, never to be seen again… The coolest thing that’s happened to me in surfing. Ok, now it’s time to get more objective. Tuesday was about head high and smooth and great. Wednesday was about the same but maybe even more fun. Yesterday, things backed off a bit and I surfed the wrong tide (low tide is better here) but still had fun […]
SurfSurf
Miles Clark |
2 Comments

Detailed 2013/14 Ocean Beach, California Season Recap:

The below chart is from Wunderground. They have a weather station somewhere near Kelly’s and it records all kinds of meteorological data continuously, including wind direction and speed. You can see the average daily wind direction and speed for August 1, 2013 through April 31, 2014. Remember all those good days we had in December and January? Well, they can pretty much be explained by the average wind direction being E on those days. Additionally, there were very few low-pressure systems that rolled through the […]
SurfSurf
Guest Author |
7 Comments

Peru Surf & Culture Report: Playa Makaja & Independence Day

As I arrived in Peru an instant happiness came throughout my entire body when I felt the cold air on my face. Escaping the 100 degree heat of Utah summer to 65 degree ocean front environment was amazing. My first stop was the capital city of Lima and would be my jumping off point for the entire country. Armed only with a Lonely Planet and a sense of adventure my brother and I were able to find a great hostel in the heart of the Mira Flores area of the city called Hitch Hikers Hostel and […]
SurfSurf
Ryan Mulcahy |
0 Comments

Bali, Indonesia Surf & Culture Report: Enormous Waves, Dengue Fever, Kecak Dance

The traditional healer that gave me the cupping therapy the other week helped for a bit, but not long. I ended up going back to Bali from Java and going to the doctor after 5 nights of fever. Yep, I got Dengue Fever. You get Dengue Fever from mosquitos and I don’t recommend it. In Bali, the waves were enormous. I mean huge. I went to Uluwatu and it was cranking. I actually thought I was going to paddle out until I walked down to the […]
SurfSurf
Miles Clark |
1 Comment

Java, Indonesia Surf & Culture Report: Dirt, Grunge, & Barrels

Java. It’s pronounced Jawa, locally. Which is great because it makes it sound like a planet in Star Wars. Which is pretty much is. Java is dirty. It’s grungy, it’s funky, it’s polluted, and amazing. Java is the most densely populated island on Earth. This island has the same population as Russia. There’s 145 million people on this Island. This is the 3rd most densely populated place on Earth. You’re never lonely here. Java is long island that is nothing but a string […]
SurfSurf
Miles Clark |
4 Comments

Lombok Surf & Culture Report: Glimpse Into Another World

The left is what has surprised me this week. I usually scoff at it and turn my head. This week, it was too big for the right and it wasn’t working a couple of days, so I slinked over to the left. I was pretty surprised at what I found. It was a mandatory, very late drop. An air drop many times (which translated to some incredible wipeouts). But, if you made the drop, the wave would slow up for a second and give you the chance to make a big […]
SurfSurf
Miles Clark |
1 Comment

Lombok, Indonesia Surf & Culture Report: Images of a Magical Land

Indonesia itself is magical place. The isle of Lombok is no exception. It’s changing fast however. If you want to see it mostly undisturbed by major development, it’s time to come now. The Emirates are building a large hotel near Kuta, Lombok and things are happening quick. They already built a new airport and they’ve begun paving all the roads. It’s getting busy here, but it’s not too bad yet. The hotel is a large project and it’ll be awhile before […]
SurfSurf
Miles Clark |
1 Comment