La Clusaz, France, Report: Skiing in the Footsteps of a Legend

Brett Ploss | | Post Tag for Conditions ReportConditions Report
From the Col de Balme, a view of the top of Megรจve | Image: Brett Ploss

Report from March 17, 2025 โ€“ La Clusaz, France

Nestled in the heart of the French Alps, La Clusaz is a resort steeped in both history and tradition, offering everything from challenging terrain to a vibrant, passionate mountain culture. Known for its world-class freeride scene and stunning alpine vistas, itโ€™s a favorite destination for skiers of all kinds. The resort holds a special significance in the skiing world, as it is home to legendary freerider Candide Thovex.

On our visit, we were lucky enough to experience La Clusaz through the eyes of Thomas, Candideโ€™s brother-in-law, who provided unique insights into both the mountain and its legacy. With perfect conditions high on the mountain and a temperature inversion creating breathtaking scenery, it was a day filled with adventure, history, and skiing at its finest.

Arriving at La Clusaz

The Monday morning market at La Clusaz | Image: Brett Ploss
The Monday morning market at La Clusaz | Image: Brett Ploss
The town of La Clusaz buried beneath cloud cover | Image: Brett Ploss

The morning began with a classic scene in the villageโ€”locals and visitors alike strolling through the weekly market held each Monday morning. Stalls overflowed with an incredible variety of local goodsโ€”hundreds of cheeses, fresh meats, seasonal vegetables, and handcrafted art pieces, all proudly displayed by the vendors. The rich scents of cured meats and alpine cheeses filled the air, mingling with the lively hum of shoppers chatting with artisans and farmers. It was a perfect introduction to the heart and soul of La Clusaz.

The charm of La Clusaz extends beyond its slopes, and the vibrant market was a reminder that this is more than just a ski town; itโ€™s a living, breathing Alpine community.

Col de Balme: Above the Clouds

The gondola pushing through the clouds to make its way above the inversion | Image: Brett Ploss
A view heading up La Balme just breaking through the clouds | Image: Brett Ploss
Thomas overlooking La Balme | Image: Brett Ploss
Tops of the Alps peaking through the inversion | Image: Brett Ploss

As we made our way up the mountain, a stunning weather phenomenon quickly revealed itself. A thick cloud layer blanketed the lower slopes, creating near-flat visibility at the base. However, as we ascended into the La Balme sector, the landscape transformed dramatically. Above the clouds, the sky opened up into an endless sea of blue, with the jagged peaks of the French Alps rising above the inversion. It felt like stepping onto another planetโ€”a dazzling contrast of cold mist below and warm, radiant sunshine above.

According to Thomas, inversions like this are common throughout the winter. While towns like Geneva often remain shrouded in a dense cloud cover for much of the season, a quick one-hour drive to La Clusaz offers an escape into the Alpine sun. The difference was striking: the valley below felt locked in winterโ€™s dark grip, while up high, the sun warmed the air, making it feel almost spring-like, and allowing us to shed a few layers.

The Col de Balme, located at the highest point of La Clusaz, became our favorite area. With its elevation, it was the only part of the resort offering clear skies and sunshine. The snow here was light and dry, typical of the high-altitude conditions despite the European sun beating down on it. We spent most of our time skiing off-piste beneath towering rock faces. The views were equally breathtaking, with the surrounding peaks of the French Alps stretching endlessly in every direction. It was a rare opportunity to experience skiing with such clarity and beauty, and it left a lasting impression of La Clusaz as a place where natureโ€™s majesty and ideal snow conditions perfectly align.

Candide Thovexโ€™s Legacy and the Renaming of His Run

A trail sign now points towards the new off-piste Candide Thovex run | Image: Brett Ploss
A trail sign now points towards the new off-piste Candide Thovex run | Image: Brett Ploss
Candideโ€™s run is marked by signs every few hundred meters. Viewers of One of Those Days will recognize the route on their descent. | Image: Brett Ploss

One of the highlights of the day was skiing Candide Thovexโ€™s newly named run. This was the very run he used while filming his iconic One of Those Days series. Now officially renamed Candide Thovex, the slope is a tribute to the man who put La Clusaz on the map in the world of freeskiing.

Thomas, who played a role in the creation of these films, guided us to some of the key spots where the magic happened. He pointed out the exact areas where Candide launched breathtaking airs, slid effortlessly through fields of grass, and skied some of the most creative lines ever filmed. One such spot was the barn Candide slid into during One of Those Daysโ€”a moment that became instantly iconic in the freeskiing world. Thomas explained how he helped shovel snow and build jumps to create the ideal landing and takeoff zones for Candideโ€™s stunts.

Thomas pointing out the famous barn from One of Those Days | Image: Brett Ploss
Thomas showing us the cave Candide skied into during One of Those Days | Image: Brett Ploss

As we talked in the gondola, Thomas shared behind-the-scenes footage from the film, including an old iPhone clip of Candide water skiing behind a helicopter. These glimpses into the making of the film were a reminder of just how groundbreaking Candideโ€™s work has been in pushing the boundaries of freeskiing.

The naming of the run marks an exciting moment in the resortโ€™s history and adds another layer to Candideโ€™s legacy. Not only is the run now named after him, but Candide has recently signed a new deal with the resort, potentially paving the way for the resortโ€™s sponsorship to shift to his Candide Ski brand. Whether this new partnership will shape La Clusazโ€™s future remains to be seen, but itโ€™s clear that Candideโ€™s connection to the resort will only grow stronger.

The Thovex Family Connection

Thomas overlooking La Balme | Image: Brett Ploss

While Candide is known for pioneering freeride skiing, his brother-in-law, Thomas, took a different route in the sport. Thomas was once a competitive ski racer, while Candide and his siblings fully embraced the freeride lifestyle. Though heโ€™s considered something of the โ€œblack sheepโ€ of the Thovex family, Thomasโ€™s racing background has given him a unique perspective on skiing and the resort. His insider knowledge of La Clusaz, coupled with his racing experiences, made for a fascinating day of exploration. It was incredible to hear how his path intersected with Candideโ€™s, and how both brothers-in-lawโ€™s careers have shaped the history of the resort.

La Clusaz Resort Overview

La Clusaz trail map | Image: La Clusaz website

La Clusaz offers a mix of terrain that caters to every type of skier. Typically closing the first week of May, the resort boasts 85 runs across five mountain sectors, including La Balme, which features 1,500 meters of vertical drop. Its varied terrain makes it perfect for both beginners looking to improve and advanced skiers seeking more technical challenges.

The resort is serviced by 47 ski lifts, including cable cars, gondolas, chairlifts, and surface lifts, providing efficient access to the resortโ€™s 125 kilometers of marked pistes. Whether youโ€™re looking for groomed runs or off-piste adventures, La Clusaz has it all, including some of the best freeride terrain in the Alps.

Snow Conditions

3/23/2025 | Image: OpenSnow

Forecast

3/23/2025 | Image: OpenSnow

With clear skies expected to continue and temperatures mild in the coming days, spring skiing is in full swing. Higher-altitude areas like Col de Balme will offer ideal conditions for packed powder skiing, while the lower slopes may see spring conditions with wetter, heavier snow.

Photos

The inversion starting to break towards the end of the day | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of lโ€™aiguille du midi from La Clusaz | Image: Brett Ploss

Related Articles

Got an opinion? Let us know...