Search Called Off for 2 Missing Utah Climbers in Pakistan

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Scott & Kyle. image: the guardian
Scott & Kyle. image: the guardian

Kyle Dempster, 33, and Scott Adamson, 34, have been missing on the north face of 23,900′ Ogre II off the Choktoi Glacier in northern Pakistan since August 26th, 2016 – when they were due back in basecamp.

The North Face of Ogre II.  photo:  alpinist magazine
The North Face of Ogre II. photo: alpinist magazine

A major search including the Pakistani Military helicopters, Global Rescue helicopters, and a crowdfunding effort to raise money for more search and rescue has been underway since August 28th.

Ogre II on the left. Ogre I on the right
Ogre II on the left. Ogre I on the right

Yesterday, the families of the 2 well-known Utah climbers called off the search for Scott & Kyle.

According to Jonathan Thesenga, Black Diamond Equipment spokesperson (Black Diamond was a major sponsor of this trip), the Pakistani military conducted detailed sweeps of the climbers’ likely descent route using two helicopters.  The weather has been very stormy and Saturday was the first day clear enough for flyovers.  They also checked where the climbers were last seen.

Kyle Dempster.
Kyle Dempster.

According to Thesenga, Scott & Kyle left base camp on August 21st, 2016 to begin their climb.  They planned on 5 days for their ascent.  Their cook at base camp reported seeing their headlamps halfway up the peak on August 22nd.  On August 23rd, a potent storm rolled in with snow, wind, and low clouds.  The two climbers were never seen again.

Scott & Kyle were attempting to climb the formidable north face of 23,900′ Ogre II.  Ogre II is part of the mountain massif known as Baintha Brakk in Pakistan.

Scott Adamson
Scott Adamson

Ogre II has only ever been summited once, by a Korean team in 1980 by a less difficult rout.

Kyle was considered climbing royalty has he had won the Piolets d’Or twice – the most prestigious award in climbing.  The last time Kyle won it, in 2013, was due to a climb in the same area were he just lost his life.

The north face of Ogre II.
The north face of Ogre II.

Just last year, Kyle and Scott nearly died while attempting to climb Ogre II after Scott broke his leg in a 100-foot fall.  The two of them also fell 400-feet while trying to get down the mountain to safety.

Both Scott & Kyle had made careers out of climbing the Earths most difficult and remote mountains.

“It’s a journey to something that inspires you.  On that journey, you go through the feeling of fear and to an eventual outcome. You use your pool of experience and common sense and intuition to help make decisions and mitigate the dangers.” – Kyle Dempster

Ogre II on the left. Ogre I on the right
Ogre II on the left. Ogre I on the right

KYLE & SCOTT RESCUE UPDATES:

Saturday, September 3, 2016

Salt Lake City, Utah

This update is for Saturday, September 3rd and is provided in order to keep everyone informed of the efforts being made to locate Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson. NOTE: All dates and times referenced are for Pakistan Standard Time.

Early on Saturday, September 3rd, two Pakistani military helicopters left Skardu in clear weather. They landed at basecamp on the Choktoi Glacier and picked up climber Thomas Huber (Austria) who would assist as an observer/spotter. An exhaustive and close-proximity initial search of the north face of the Ogre 2 (where Kyle and Scott were last seen on August 22), the northeast ridge (their planned descent route), and the glacial basin between the Ogre 2 and Ogre 1, yielded no sign of the pair. After refueling, the two helicopters made a second sweep of all sides of the mountain, from an even higher altitude, and again found no sign of Kyle and Scott. In light of those extensive yet unsuccessful efforts, the search team and knowledgeable observers in Pakistan, the US, and Europe, assessed that there remained a very slim chance that any evidence of their passage would be revealed in subsequent sweeps of the mountain.

Given the time that has elapsed and the nearly continuous stormy weather since they were last seen, and the substantial risks that such high-altitude missions entail, Kyle and Scott’s families have made the extremely difficult decision to end the search efforts.

We owe a huge amount of gratitude to the Pakistan government for scrambling all of their available assets and their commitment to finding Scott and Kyle. Their support, and that of Global Rescue, has been invaluable. Additionally Kyle and Scott’s families are deeply grateful for the assistance provided by the Pakistan Embassy in Switzerland the US Embassy in Pakistan, and numerous other individuals and organizations worldwide. We will acknowledge and thank each of them publicly and privately in the coming days.

– Black Diamond

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Friday, September 2, 2016

Salt Lake City, Utah

The search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson is ongoing. This update for Friday, September 2nd and is provided in order to keep everyone informed of the efforts being made to locate Kyle and Scott. NOTE: all dates and times referenced are for Pakistan Standard Time.

There is a confirmed weather window opening up as early as tomorrow morning. This is the first break in weather in 10 days, since Kyle and Scott were last seen. We have been in communication with the Pakistan military and they assure us that two Pakistani military helicopters will be starting the search tomorrow morning. A Global Rescue helicopter will also be on hand. We owe a huge amount of gratitude to the Pakistan government for scrambling all of their available assets and their commitment to finding Scott and Kyle. Their support, and that of Global Rescue, has been invaluable. Additionally Kyle and Scott’s families are deeply grateful for the assistance provided by the Pakistan Embassy in Switzerland. It’s important to note that without the help of the Pakistani military, Global Rescue, and the Pakistan Embassy in Switzerland, we would not be so well equipped to take advantage of this upcoming, and crucial, weather window.

– Black Diamond

Ogre II on the left. Ogre I on the right
Ogre II on the left. Ogre I on the right

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Salt Lake City, Utah

The search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson is ongoing. This update for Thursday, September 1st is provided in order to keep everyone informed of the efforts being made to locate Kyle and Scott. All dates and times noted are Pakistan Standard Time.

Snow and low clouds at Ogre II again kept the aerial search team grounded in Skardu. In addition to the Global Rescue helicopter, we are very grateful to have the Pakistani military now supporting the effort—they have helicopters at the ready in Skardu.

Current weather forecasts for the Ogre II area show the potential for a change in pressure and possible weather clearing within the next 24-48 hours. The Pakistani military helicopters are prepared to get in the air as soon as a usable window of good weather occurs.

The porters that have trekked up the Biafo Glacier from Askole to the backside of Ogre II should be in position to begin a visual inspection with binoculars by Friday, September 2.

Kyle and Scott’s rescue insurance will only cover a fraction (under $10,000) of the rapidly-escalating costs. We have already paid significant deposits for the helicopter and for porters to search on foot for Scott and Kyle. That is why a GoFundMe page (https://www.gofundme.com/2mjv38k) has been established, which continues to see contributions from the global climbing family.

The friends and family of Kyle and Scott wish to deeply and sincerely thank everyone for their concerns, contributions, and continued hope for Kyle and Scott.

– Black Diamond

***

August 31, 2016

Salt Lake City, Utah

The search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson is ongoing. We will be providing daily updates moving forward in order to keep everyone informed of the efforts being made to locate Kyle and Scott.

Heavy cloud cover throughout the day did not allow the Global Rescue helicopter to fly into the area on Wednesday. We are currently working with several weather experts to obtain and compile actionable forecasts in order to help determine when the soonest weather window will be in which the helicopter could potentially do a flight.

Additionally, we have hired a group of porters from the village of Askole to head up the Biafo Glacier, which leads to the backside of Ogre 2, in order to make a visual inspection with binoculars of the area that Kyle and Scott could have potentially been descending. The porters, who left Askole on Wednesday afternoon, are also equipped with extra food, sleeping bags, tent, etc, but the main goal is for them to visually inspect that side of the mountain and relay any information to search logistics team.

We are all extremely thankful to the global climbing community for rallying their support behind the search. The GoFundMe page (https://www.gofundme.com/2mjv38k) has seen overwhelming response and support, so thank you to everyone who has contributed.

– Black Diamond

***

August 30, 2016

Salt Lake City, Utah

Early on Sunday, August 21, Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson started up the North Face of the Ogre 2, just off the Choktoi Glacier in northern Pakistan. They planned on five days for the climb and descent. On Monday evening, their Pakistani cook, Ghafoor Abdul, spotted their headlamps roughly halfway up the peak. The weather remained good until Tuesday afternoon, when a storm moved in. Snowfall and cloudy conditions have persisted in the region since then.

Kyle and Scott have not been seen since Monday, August 22, no surprise given the complexity and scale of the terrain and the vagaries of the weather. On Sunday, August 28, family and friends initiated a search and rescue effort, assisted by local authorities and another climbing team on the Choktoi.

– Black Diamond


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