3,600-Mile Patagonia to Antarctica Safari | Day #6 = Perito Moreno, ARG → El Chalten, ARG | Flamingos & Fuzzy Llamas

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Report from October 9, 2023

On Monday, we hit the long, open desert road from Perito Moreno, Argentina to El Chalten, Argentina.

I’d skied in El Chalten last season with our good friend Gabe Monroe and the place blew my mind.

The main feature of this road trip for me is El Chalten.

Day #6 Details:

  • Miles Driven:  384
  • Total Miles Driven: 1,249
  • Hours of Driving:  8
  • Latitude:  46.5ºS → 49.3ºS
  • Good Food Eaten:  Maffia in El Chalten – insane salad, amazing Ossubucco Ravoii, ridiculous pork cannelloni
  • Lodging: Guer Aike – epic tiny homes with full views of the Fitz Roy Towers
Flamingos! image: snowbrains

We left Perito Moreno early and headed south through the high desert.

Right away, we spotted flamingos.

Then more flamingos.

Guanacos. image: snowbrains

Then we finally had to pull over when we saw over 40 flamingos in one spot.

Flamingos make me happy.

The idea that you can ski powder on the glacier and see flamingos on the same day floods my brain with dopamine.

We were at this same gas station in November 2022 when we almost ran out of gas when El Chalten had no gas… image: snowbrains

The rest of the road was full of Guanacos (little, fuzzy, llamas).

We likely saw over 1,000 Guanacos on this day.

We also likely saw over 500 dead Guanacos.

The towers! image: snowbrains

The barbed wire fences here kill Guanacos at a rate of around 1 to 2 per mile.

They get caught on the fences when jumping over them and the barbes hold them.

They always have their hind legs caught above the knee or have one ankle caught.

3 legged Scottish Deerhound in the middle of nowhere. image: snowbrains

It’s brutal to see and we wish they’d come up with a new strategy to avoid this massacre…

Also, at Tres Lagos, not far from El Chalten, we saw about 100 Guanacos newly dead and all over the place.

They weren’t all on the fences.

Maffia. image: snowbrains

They were just strewn haphazardly everywhere.

We have no explanation for what happened and haven’t been able to acquire any good answers here in El Chalten.

We also saw many Rhea (South American Ostrich) but they are so camouflaged that our photos of them are trash.

Lake Viedma. image: snowbrains

Arriving in El Chalten was glorious.

A few flakes of snow were falling and the Fitz Roy towers slowly emerged from cloud and shroud.

We ate an excellent dinner and prepared for a 4-night barrage of skiing and overwhelming scenery.

Thanks, Argentina!

3,600-Mile Patagonia to Antarctica Safari 2023

Photos

Flamingos! image: snowbrains
The road. image: snowbrains
Empanadas in General Gregores. image: snowbrains
Towers poking out. image: snowbrains
Almost there. image: snowbrains
El Chalten. image: snowbrains
Flamingos! image: snowbrains
Road. image: snowbrains
Gas in El Chalten! image: snowbrains
Road. image: snowbrains
Flamingos! image: snowbrains
Lunch in Gobernador Gregores. image: snowbrains
Maffia. image: snowbrains
Maffia. image: snowbrains
Maffia. image: snowbrains
Maffia. image: snowbrains
Maffia. image: snowbrains

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