Hokkaido Japan’s Rusutsu Resort — Tree Ski Paradise

Jared Roberts |
japanese lake
The expansive view of the Pacific from the top of Rusutsu adds a beautiful layer to an already special resort. | Pic: Jared Roberts

For powder enthusiasts, there are few better sensations than picking an untouched line through a perfectly spaced tree grove and experiencing near weightlessness while one’s skis or board silently carve patterns on the perfect snowy canvass draping a mountainside. At Rusutsu Resort, located near Sapporo on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, be prepared to feel that sensation frequently with infinite lines through multiple tree-covered mountainsides and a plethora of deep snow for powderhounds to enjoy.

rusutsu mountain map
The three mountains of Rusutsu are well connected and provide access to the best tree skiing in Japan. | Pic: Rusutsu Resort

Rusutsu Resort, founded in 1981 and located less than 45 minutes away from Niseko, comprises three separate mountains connected by a well-developed infrastructure of high-speed lifts and modern gondolas accessing 37 named runs. The named runs offer 26 miles of fantastic trails suitable for all ages and levels. Amongst the named runs, you will encounter Steamboat A and Steamboat B culminating in the Steamboat Cafeteria.

Steamboat Cafeteria at Rusutsu, Japan. Rusutsu’s owners also owned Steamboat in the late 80s and 90s. | Pic: Rusutsu Resort

However, it is the resort’s unnamed tree-skiing areas surrounding the named runs that have earned Rusutsu the reputation as one of the premier tree-skiing resorts on the planet. 

With an average of 551 inches of the highest quality powder falling at Rusutsu each year, patrons frequently ride storm days, powder days, and bottomless laps from 3,261 feet above sea level down nearly 2,000 vertical feet to the base. Rusutsu’s location is conducive to enormous quantities of snowfall due to receiving icy-cold winds moving down from Siberia, and the Sea of Japan providing copious amounts of moisture. Nearby, the large volcano Mount Yotei rises 6,227 feet above sea level to shelter Rusutsu from the damaging Northwest winds while simultaneously receiving less “wet” snow and more “dry” powder due to the resort’s inland location. Additionally, vast portions of Rusutsu possess favorable aspects concerning the sun, further aiding snow quality retention efforts.

japan trees
Powder days are commonplace at Rusutsu due to its unique geographical location. | Pic: Jared Roberts

The largest of Rusutsu’s three mountains, Mount Isola, offers countless tree glades and natural features including downed tree rails, rock pillows, and tight steep gullies, while the nearby East Mountain provides access to terrain parks, fast groomers, steep bumps, and of course many more tree glades. The smallest of the three peaks is West Mountain, which connects to the main base area and offers ski schools and beginner lifts in addition to a variety of groomers, low-angle tree glades, and well-lit night skiing.

empty slopes
Groomed runs at Rusutsu are often long, and wide, and range from gentle rolling to steep. | Pic: Jared Roberts

As well as operating a ski resort in the cold winter months, Rusutsu Resort also functions as a hub for a variety of seasonal and year-round activities. The summer amusement park offers a variety of attractions including several roller coasters suitable for children and adults, a wave pool, water slides, go-karts, train rides, and high-ropes courses, while four golf courses challenge even the best recreational golfers. For tourists uninterested in skiing or riding, dog sledding, snowmobile tours, snow rafting, and ice fishing are all winter activities offered in or near Rusutsu. Inside the resort hotels, interesting features add character such as an old-school arcade, a giant carousel, an indoor fountain show, and multiple singing animatronic presentations keeping moods light and laughs plentiful.

roller coaster
Carving down a run ending in an amusement park was a fun and unique Rusutsu experience. | Pic: Jared Roberts

Outside of world-class snowsports, immersing in Japanese culture and partaking in culinary excellence are two additional reasons to visit Rusutsu – or any other Japanese ski area. Walking from the slopes to the public onsens (naturally occurring hot springs) for a geothermally heated soak rumored to possess healing powers due to the various minerals present in the water offers the perfect finish to an exhausting day in waist-deep powder. Reader beware, an onsen experience is not a usual dip in a Western resort’s hot tub, it is a much more “exposed” activity. Following the relaxation reset of the onsen, find any Japanese restaurant for a dinner consisting of the freshest sushi, ramen, udon, meats, and vegetables, often presented in a beautifully artistic and tasteful manner. Wash it all down with a vending machine beer sourced from local Sapporo, warm Sake, and a cup of green tea, and go to sleep prepared to do it all over again with six to nine inches of fresh powder likely falling since the last lift closed.

eggs and fish
Traditional Japanese breakfast is always a great start to any day. | Pic: Jared Roberts

Rusutsu Resort is a known world-class powder destination for a reason. Come for endless tree skiing, plentiful powder days, minimal lift-lines, and reasonable prices. Stay for the classical culture, exquisite food, gentle and attentive hospitality, and friendliness of the Japanese people.

gondola in japan
Riding with a volcano in the background on one side, and the Pacific Ocean on the other. | Pic: Jared Roberts

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