Karl Egloff Just Beat Kilian Jornet’s Denali ‘Summit and Back’ Record

CragBrains | ClimbingClimbing
Alaska, Denali, fkt, fastest known time, Karl Egloff, Kilian Jornet
Karl Egloff and Nicholas Miranda on the summit of Denali. Credit: Karl Egloff Archive

Alpinist Karl Egloff just set a new speed record for climbing up and back down 20,310-foot Denali (the highest peak in North America). In taking 11 hours and 44 he shaved a whole minute off the previous record, set by legendary Spanish alpinist Kilian Jornet in 2014.

The 38-year-old Swiss-Ecuadorian has been taking down Jornet’s speed records on the Seven Summits one at a time, and on Thursday, June 20, climbed the West Buttress route on Denali in 7 hours 40 minutes to reach the summit and then took another 4 hours 4 minutes to get back down.

Alaska, Denali, fkt, fastest known time, Karl Egloff, Kilian JornetEgloff destroyed Jornet’s previous ascent record, slicing 2 hours 5 minutes off the Spaniard’s previous record of 9 hours 45 minutes from base camp to summit. And though Egloff’s roundtrip time was only faster by a single minute, Jornet had descended on skis while Egloff completed the entire climb—up and down—on foot.

“Karl Egloff chose to ascend through the West Buttress route with a distance of 26.55 km (16.5 miles) and 4060 m of positive elevation gain, and descended through the same route, therefore, setting a completely new record. Egloff left from the base camp located at 2194.5 m (7200 ft) at 7:00 am local time. This is his fourth world record achieved within his Seven Summits project” a press release said.

Egloff’s other already-established speed records on the Seven Summits are as follows:

  • Kilimanjaro (19,341-feet) — 6 hours 42 minutes; set in 2014
  • Aconcagua (22,831-feet) — 11 hours 52 minutes; set in 2015
  • Mount Elbrus (18,510-feet) — 4 hours 20 minutes, in 2017

Kilian Jornet was one of the first to congratulate Egloff for his race up and down the highest mountain in North America.


Related Articles

Got an opinion? Let us know...